Uganda Notes

The Wheelchair/Tricycle Campaign

Thanks to the generosity of these people, we have met, and in fact, exceeded the target in just one week.

Hazel Baskin
Betty Bergin
Margie and Phil Bott
Ursula Chavez-Hibbard
John Knobel
Carol and Mike Lundy
Lorna McKenzie
Mary and Frank Mayda
Jody and Shaan Parekh
Shirley Sauvé
Suzanne Sauvé
Maria and Jaap Schouten
Maureen Sly
Marie and Mel Thompson

Folks, your gift will make a big difference in the life of a Ugandan with a disability. And Margie, I greatly appreciate your contribution to this effort. To all of you, my most sincere Vasinja (thanks)! Merci! Muchas gracius!


Biira Gatrida in Her New Tricycle
A gift from Margie and Phil Bott

Matooke, Muchomo and Grasshoppers

Matooke is a popular Ugandan dish that consists of steam-cooked green bananas. This is a featured item at most parties and group dinners. Ugandans don’t seem to have enough of it. Kaunga is another popular dish which is a mix of millet and cassava. For some locals, dinner is not complete without some Kaunga. A concoction of maize is cooked to make Posha. One other item that is popular among the Mizungus (white folks) is Muchomo, barbecued goat (or beef or chicken) meat. Muchomo with French fried make a nice meal for many ex pats.

A very special delicacy is called Ensenene. It consists of fried grasshoppers and it is served in Ugandan homes to their honoured guests. I haven’t been served this delicacy, not yet. And, if served, I don’t think I would sample a fried grasshopper.

Rice is a staple at meals. Goat is the most popular among meats followed by chicken. Fish is also available in most restaurants and so is beef although less frequently.

The influence of Indian cuisine is very strong. Many restaurants feature curries (goat, fish, beef and vegetable) and chapattis on their menus. A few higher-priced restaurants also feature Western dishes – pan cakes, sandwiches, salads, pizzas, fish and chips and spaghetti. But their version of these dishes can be quite different. Each time I order one of these items, I have a surprise.

Polygamy and human rights

If I want to marry more than one woman and if the women are happy marrying me, why should anyone object? It’s none of their business. It is a violation of a man’s human rights to insist that he can only marry one woman; and, human rights of women are also breached if they cannot marry a man with more than one wife. They are deprived of their right to freely choose whomever they want to marry.

I have paraphrased above the vigorous argument my driver in Kampala put forward in defending polygamy which is legal in Uganda. For him, the notion of monogamy did not make sense. And, he did not defend polygamy on religious grounds (i.e. Islam allowing a man to marry up to four women). For him, it was a matter of human right. When I asked him whether women have a reciprocal right, he promptly replied that Ugandan women would not want to marry more than one man anyway.

I know of a few men who have more than one wife. One is an old story-teller living in the mountains in a small hut. He has five women (they call them women, not wives) and several children. He is very poor; yet, he seemed to be doing fine living with five women. On Valentine’s Day, the paper contained a piece with the headline, “I love all my wives” and the author was the Chair of Uganda’s Election Commission. It didn’t indicate how many women he had married but it was clear that he had married several times.

What is the maximum number of women a man can marry? I don’t have the answer. But, a few weeks ago, one of the national newspapers featured a full-page story of this very wealthy and huge Ugandan man. The article also carried a picture of his entire clan - twenty one wives and seventy children. Imagine that!

Uganda Time

A few weeks ago, we had a scheduled meeting with the District Service Commissioner who is the head of the local government machinery. This was the first meeting of its kind where our board was to meet him and his staff in the hope of initiating an ongoing dialogue. KDP had prepared for it for days and a couple of people from KDP’s partner organizations had travelled for this meeting all the way from Kampala. However, it was only after 15-17 of us reached the Commissioner’s office that one of his minions told us that the meeting would have to be delayed - by one full day. Even though everyone here has a mobile phone, no one from the Commissioner’s office bothered informing us about the delay.

This is perhaps an extreme example, but, I have yet to attend a meeting, whether with our own executive or with government officials or elsewhere, that has started on time or within a few minutes. And, when a meeting is delayed, it could be for hours, not minutes. What I find amazing is that Ugandans don’t seem to be bothered by this kind of delays. They accept it as part of their way of life. But, my patience is tested daily.

Stapled newspapers and the soccer craze

The first time I bought a newspaper in Kasese, I tore the first page when I tried turning it. That’s because vendors staple their newspapers. Apparently, some people go to the newspaper stall, grab and read a paper there and return it without buying it. So, to prevent free-loaders from reading the paper, they put at least two and sometimes more staples. Not a bad idea, eh?

There are two major national newspapers. They are both in a tabloid format, and in both, domestic news take up a huge chunk of the space. Uganda’s national election is only a year from now. So, political news and stories dominate the news. Major international news like the disaster in Haiti and Chile’s earthquake get lost somewhere in the middle pages.

Aside from domestic news, each paper devotes four to six full pages to soccer every day. Ugandans are crazy about soccer. The World Cup of soccer is scheduled in South Africa and it is only 100 days from today; so, the countdown is on. There are stories of teams, their owners, managers, players and juicy gossips. Sports pages hardly carry news of other sports with the exception of a couple of items like Tiger Woods’ mea culpa and an Indian cricketer’s record-breaking 200 runs in a one-day match. The same is true of local TV stations which continuously show soccer, soccer and more soccer. But, the Winter Olympics, an international sporting event, was completely ignored.

Sundays are special

Sunday is a very special day here. It is reserved for one and only one activity – visiting the Church. For most of the residents of this town, their Sunday is not complete without a visit to the Church. Walking around Kasese and neighbouring communities on a Sunday morning, you can see groups of people, older men in dark suits and ties and women in long dresses and head scarves going to or coming out of a Church. Even for younger Ugandans, Sunday Church service is a must. This is such an important part of their weekly routine that they cannot fathom someone like me, for example, not going to the Church.

However, Church’s influence goes well beyond the Sunday service. Every business meeting and public function, except a one-on-one visit, invariably begins with a prayer, a Christian prayer, asking for spiritual guidance and divine wisdom. Sometimes, there is also a prayer of thanks at the end.

Beauty is in the gap between the teeth

An article published in a newspaper around Valentine’s Day caught my attention. It described features that denote beauty for traditional Ugandan women. Among this country’s many tribes, physical standards of beauty vary. However, a gap in the front teeth of a woman is considered a mark of beauty in a number of tribal groups. In some communities the gap may be in the upper jaw while in others, the preference is for a gap in the lower jaw. Regardless, to be considered beautiful, a traditional woman must have a gap in the teeth.

To meet this criterion, some women have one or more of their front teeth knocked out. The article noted that the practice of removing women’s teeth can be traced back to the meningitis outbreak in the Karamoja region. Since the disease locked the victims’ jaws, their teeth were taken out to administer aloe vera and other herbs. Thus began the practice which later became a symbol of beauty. In one tribe, traditional Lugabara women knock six teeth out of their lower jaw in order to look beautiful. Different strokes…

Music and dance

There are 56 ethnic groups in Uganda and over 40 major languages and dozens of dialects. On a recent field visit, I was in a community about 20 km from here and these people spoke a different language. Even the young woman who was my interpreter had difficult time understanding them. The existence of so many tribes and languages accounts for the great diversity in music, dance and theatre. The picture shows a traditional instrument of the Bakonzo people. It is made of wooden planks placed on a couple of tree stumps and people hit the planks with small sticks to produce music to which women wearing grass skirts dance. Unfortunately, I have not been able to send you the video. But, enjoy the picture.


Bakonzo tribe’s instrument called Embara

Make a difference

In my blog of January 27th (KADUPEDI - The people I work with), I had written about some of the most amazing people I have met here. Biiara Gatrida was one of them. She was born with polio and both her legs are non-functional. She wears thongs on her hands to use them as her feet and drags herself all over. When I met her, at first it was painful to watch her straining at each step. At the same time, I was struck by how well she could manage herself, as if her disability did not exist. She has boundless perseverance and determination.

Despite her condition, she took courses on weaving mats and baskets. She now makes and sells these hand-made articles to support herself. When I asked her about her biggest wish, she instantly replied that she was desperately yearning to acquire a wheel chair. If she had her own vehicle, she explained, she could herself pick up the raw material for her weaving business. When others help her, she cannot always rely on them. And, she wants to be independent. She also wants to start giving lessons in weaving to others in her situation.

Reading her story on the blog, my dear friends, Margie and Phil Bott, were moved and they immediately fired off an e-mail to me offering to buy a wheel chair for Biiara Gatrida. What a heart-warming gesture! And, they didn’t even inquire about the cost. Very special people they are, Margie and Phil.

In talking to Baluku Peter at the office, he explained that because of road and traffic conditions, here, a tricycle is preferred by those who are not mobile. It has a wheel in the front. Instead of paddles, the rider uses the handles that put the chain in motion to move and steer. After a few inquiries, we connected with a local company that makes these tricycles. Its first product is shown in the picture.



To build on the gesture of Margie and Phil, I have decided to acquire more of these wheel chairs/tricycles. My target is to get a minimum of ten of these vehicles before I leave Uganda around 10 April. Since writing that blog, I have met dozens of people - children, women and men, who, because of polio, cerebral palsy, epilepsy, land mines, accidents or injuries suffered during Uganda’s bloody insurgencies, are not able to move. And, being extremely poor, no one, including family members can help them with mobility.

The challenge is overwhelming and giving these vehicles to ten people will be only like a drop in the ocean. Nevertheless, there are many small ways in which we in rich countries can help out these poorest of the poor, people with disabilities. Giving of these wheel chairs/tricycles will be one such tiny step.

If you are moved, motivated or inspired, I would welcome your participation in this project. It will cost you not more than $200. And, you will certainly make a huge difference in the life of someone less fortunate. They will forever be grateful to you.

For contributing to this effort or any questions, please send me an e-mail at: tda1@rogers.com

A Ugandan Family

Robert is a 34-year old Ugandan. I met him at an Internet Café a few weeks ago. He is a medical laboratory technician working in a Health Centre in Kasese. We meet once or twice a week, usually on Sundays.

Yesterday, he invited me to visit his home in a nearby village located in the Rwenzori mountains. Robert has a government subsidized apartment in Kasese, but he visits his home every weekend to be with his mother and siblings and more importantly, to help them “dig”, i.e. cultivate land. We started in the morning around 9. Normally, Robert travels to and from his village by a boda (motorbike taxi), but, today he had made special arrangement for a car taxi. Once we left the main highway, the road to his village was, like most other roads in Uganda, unpaved with hundreds of thousands of rocks and pot holes every few meters.

Maliba Town

We reached a town called Maliba (pronounced Maliva) around 10:15. It is located at the bottom of one of the mountain peaks in a scenic setting. At one end of the town is a half-completed structure where Robert’s family members and neighbours were waiting for us – his mother, his two brothers, two sisters, cousins and several neighbours. They exuded genuine joy and warmth. They were pleased to see me and their excitement was palpable. More than anyone else, his mother was beaming with happiness. Her name is Kabugho Rakeri. I soon learned the reason for their excitement - I was the first foreigner to visit them.


Family and neighbours in Maliba

Robert’s father died ten years ago of Asthma. Robert is the second oldest among his five brothers and two sisters; so, he introduces himself as Bwambale (second born) Robert. His older brother lives in Kampala and the rest of the siblings are still studying. Robert is the main breadwinner and the half-completed structure is a Health Centre he is building for his village. There is none at present.

Standing by this building, Robert pointed out his village, Mpumuro, located way up the hill. That’s where his mother lives and that’s where Robert and his siblings were born. His family members climbed up the steep hill on foot without much effort, but to make it easy on me, Robert called a couple of bodas. Yes, I rode on a motorbike without any safety gear on an uphill path with all kinds of hazards. Here, you have no choice or time to worry about safety.

Mpumuro Village

The village consists of scattered homes besides parcels of hilly terrain. Robert’s family owns about 5 acres. They grow coffee, cassava, banana, maize, Irish potatoes (Ugandan name for potatoes), sweet potatoes and groundnuts (peanuts). But, farming contributes only marginally to family’s income.

There are three small homes made of mud and wooden planks on their land – one serves as a common accommodation for the siblings, one consists of the kitchen with a wood-burning stove, and, one is his mother’s quarters. They also have a goat with two babies as well as half a dozen chickens. Water supply is a huge problem. They have to fetch water from a nearby river and that involves carrying pots full of water up and down the hill.


Robert (in the middle) and his brothers

As soon as we arrived, neighbours and friends and relatives started trickling in to greet and meet me. Robert kept repeating how special an occasion it was that a foreigner had visited them. They were glad to hear that on my part, I considered it an honour to have visited their family. They also giggled at my attempts to speak a few words in their language. Several half-naked kids kept staring at me from the doorway. They couldn’t contain excitement when I took their pictures. I also met an elderly man who is the guardian for Robert and his siblings. In this community, when a man dies, someone, an elderly family friend or a relative, is entrusted with the responsibility of mentoring and guiding the young ones. Robert explained that whenever any of the siblings and even their mother has an issue to be resolved, they turn to him for advice. He is like an elder in some of our Aboriginal communities in Canada.

When we settled down in their hut, Robert’s mother was keen on serving me some home-cooked food following their customary practice. Robert told me that she was anxious to have a goat slaughtered and cook it for me. But, he had advised her previously that I prefer vegetarian diet. Ugandans are so accustomed to meats, they cannot fathom a strictly vegetarian diet. She was disappointed, but, as a welcoming gesture, she gave me a shirt as a gift.

Tribal Traditions

I was not able to communicate directly with his mother and others because they don’t speak English and I don’t speak Lhukonzo, their language. So, Robert acted as interpreter to help with the conversation. I learned that Robert’s family is from the Bakonzo tribe. According to their tradition, the father looks for the bride for his son, similar to the tradition in rural India. When Robert’s father was of marrying age, Robert’s grandfather started looking for a woman for him. He reached out to a neighbouring community and found the bride for Robert’s father. I doubt if Robert is going to follow this tradition. He already has a girl friend, Mary, a lovely woman whom I have met.

I had no idea that these people also have a dowry system. But, the roles are reversed. Instead of the bride’s folks giving the groom a dowry as in India, it is the groom’s family which gives out a dowry to the bride’s family. Often, the dowry consists of goats. Goats are greatly prized and goat meat is the most popular meat.

To give children some sense of their roots, when a child is christened, his/her formal name begins with the name of the grandfather on father’s side. Robert’s formal name is Nyamongera (grandfather’s name) Robert. All his siblings’ names similarly begin with the name of their grandfather. Yet, they don’t use their formal names in everyday use. Thus, Robert is called Bwambale (second born) Robert.

Robert’s grandfather on mother’s side died a few weeks ago at the age of 115, an amazing record in this country where life expectancy is only 52 years. He had seven women (the word they use around here for wife), and an unknown number of children. Polygamy is legal in Uganda. His grandfather on father’s side had three women and seven children. However, Robert’s father had only one woman, Kabugho Rakeri, Robert’s mother.


Outside Robert’s Home

Returning from the village, no other transport was available. Our only choice was to walk down the mountain, about 3 km to the base. The narrow path was full of twists and turns and a steep incline that sometimes was almost vertical. To exacerbate the problem, I wore sandals, not walking shoes; and the light drizzle had made the path extremely slippery in places. Robert goes up and down this path every week, knows every inch of the way and had no problem. Thanks to considerable support from him, I managed, except for a slip. That climb was one of the most stressful and exhausting I have experienced.

At the base, Robert had already arranged for us to have lunch in an excellent restaurant. The beer tasted wonderful even though it was not as cold as I would have liked. And, the vegetable curry was also good. That lunch culminated an unforgettable day. The visit to Robert’s family was an awesome learning experience, the highlight of my stay in Uganda. I got some valuable glimpses in the culture, traditions and practices of rural folks in this country. I hope other ex pats in Uganda will have a similar opportunity.


Robert’s mother

Disabilities in Uganda

In the short time that I have been here, I am beginning to realize how overwhelming the issues affecting the disabled community in Uganda are. People with disabilities (PWDs) are among the poorest and rampant poverty contributes greatly to disability. It’s a vicious circle.

Using the World Health Organization’s world-wide estimate of 10% of population as a benchmark, there are 3.2 mill people with a disability in the country. This is perhaps an underestimate.

Causes of Disabilities

A number of factors have led to large-scale disabilities. Following independence from Britain in 1962, Uganda was torn apart by ethnic and tribal conflicts. Then came Idi Amin’s reign of terror from 1970 to 79 during which thousands of people were killed or severely injured. Another civil war broke out in 1982 under the banner of National Alliance for Liberation of Uganda (NALU). That uprising was squashed in 1986 by the National Resistance Movement (NRM) which has been the ruling party since. However, violent agitation occurred again between 1996 and 2002, led by the Alliance for Democratic Front (ADF).

These civil wars have left thousands of Ugandans maimed, homeless and orphans. In addition, 57 areas, many in the Kasese district, have been affected by land mines planted during the conflicts adding large numbers of people to the ranks of PWDs.

Many children are born with a disability: hydro cephalous (a big head), club feet (twisted feet), deafness, blindness, speech impediments, cerebral palsy, polio, etc. When a woman gives birth to a disabled baby, chances are that her husband/partner will leave her or react violently towards her accusing her of bringing such a baby in the family as if he may have had absolutely nothing do with the disability.

Furthermore, abduction of children has resulted in thousands of orphans. Between 1990 and 2001 alone, an estimated 20,000 children were abducted in conflict areas, and only 5,000 were returned to their communities. These children suffer from psychological problems and high-risk behaviours. Thousands of more children have been rendered orphans and vulnerable due to malnutrition, limited access to food and medical care, difficulties in eating balanced diets, and, stunted growth. The issues of these young Ugandans are of so monumental that the national government has established a special program for orphans and vulnerable children (OVC)

Polio Victims

Chronic diseases like malaria, cholera and meningitis add to the rolls of the disabled as do accidents. Ugandan diet, women’s difficult labour at child-birth, and, poor health care are other contributing factors. And, preference for large families adds to the misery.

HIV/AIDS

Overall, Uganda has fared better than some other African countries. The prevalence of HIV among Ugandans 15-49 years varies from as low as 2.3% in the northwest to a high of 8.6% in the central region where Kampala is the major centre. In the western region which includes Kasese, the incidence is 6.9%. However, in the Kasese district the prevalence is 11.5% and it has been rising. This district is on the border with DRC and there is very heavy traffic carrying goods back and forth. Drivers of these lorries are known as “geographical bachelors”, i.e. married while at home, but bachelors on the road. There are also a couple of big industries, cobalt and cement, which attract workers, mostly men, from the villages. In these circumstances, HIV keeps spreading.

There is no information on HIV among PWDs, but it is suspected that the figure will be much higher because PWDs are more susceptible to the virus. They tend to readily succumb to the human need. Most of them are isolated, poor and lonely, and extremely vulnerable. With the slightest hint of love and attention, even from complete strangers, they submit. This is particularly true of disabled women shunned by partners and family members.

Many children inherit HIV from their mothers. Numbers of HIV-positive children of mothers carrying the same virus is not known. But, a recent newspaper item suggested that although the situation has improved, it could still be as high as one in six children.

A lack of HIV/AIDS education is another factor. There are community workers who strive to raise awareness and urge people to undergo testing. But, their reach is very limited and sporadic. Adding to the difficulty is non-availability of educational material in Braille and sign language teachers.

Since HIV/AIDS’ victims are mostly in the income-earning age bracket, the impact on families is devastating. The care and medication for an HIV/AIDS patient takes a heavy financial toll and the responsibility for looking after the family is often thrust upon children who lack maturity, knowledge and skills. As well, psychologically, these children are under heavy stress as they watch their sick and suffering parents day after day until their death.

Social Attitude

Above all, social attitude towards disabilities inhibits adequate care and rehabilitation of PWDs. A disability is considered a stigma or a curse, something a disabled person deserved, something to be ashamed of. Some mothers are so traumatized by a disabled child, they hide them lest others might see them. Community members tend to avoid PWDs.

KDP delegation meeting with District Commissioner (squatted, 2nd left)

Social attitude towards disability and the disabled has led to widespread systemic bias against PWDs. They cannot attend schools most of which are inaccessible and do not have teachers to teach sign language or Braille or meet other special needs. Many hospitals are not easily accessible either and hospital beds and latrines are not suited to meet the needs of PWDs. Hospital staff members also do not have the skills to interact with PWDs. As well, there are cases of abuse of PWDs by health care workers themselves. In the work place, the chances of securing employment are virtually non-existent for PWDs. There is a national law, The Persons with Disabilities Act 2006. It provides for equal access to employment for PWDs. But, the law is only like a statement of good intentions. Its implementation and monitoring leave lots to be desired.

The consequence of these factors is that PWDs are looked upon as useless. Even many disabled individuals see themselves as good-for-nothing. And, in the long list of government priorities and limited resources, issues of PWDs seem to fall by the way side.

This is the context in which KDP and other similar organizations serving PWDs are carrying on their work. Their task is huge and the challenge is immense.


Women with disabilities at a tailoring class

KADUPEDI - The people I work with

Kasese District Union of People with Disabilities, KADUPEDI, KDP for short, is the NGO I am working with as Program Development Advisor. KDP is a district-wide umbrella organization with over 30 members. KDP was founded in 1995 to provide a unified voice and action in dealing with the issues of people with disabilities (PWDs) in the Kasese district.


My Office Entrance

Awe-inspiring People

What has impressed me more than anything else is the exceptional breed of people associated with KPD. Baluku Peter whose official designation is Development Worker is very much like a CEO. Alice looks after all administrative chores and Biira Sylvia is the Rehab Worker.

Peter has twisted feet and a broken back. He limps and is bent over. When he was six years old, he was captured in the cross fire between Uganda's warring factions. He was injected with a serum in his legs that completely immobilized him. At one time, he was not even able to stand up. He had to drag himself to move around. However, he was determined to deal with his disability and overcome the barriers. He worked hard, studied hard and persevered to become an accountant. He is also a community worker. His personal experience inspired him to work to improve the condition of other PWDs.

Now, he is completely independent and manages his life much better than many able-bodied people. He uses his arms and cane in so many different ways, I marvel at his versatility. He also commands respect and authority. There is a constant stream of people with disabilities who drop in to seek his advice on any number maters, some of which go well beyond their disabilities. When he speaks at meetings, others listen. He is also an elected member of local council. He works at KDP as a volunteer.

Alice is in charge of office and is barely three feet tall. She fell down when she was an infant and was gravely sick and that has stunted her growth. Her arms and legs are extremely short and she has a hump on her back. But, she has a constant big smile on her face. She is always the first to arrive and the last to leave and lock up. And, what does she get for her work? Absolutely nothing! She is 27 years old, the eldest among her three brothers and five sisters. Her mother is dead and her father is a peasant without any land. He earns nothing and depends on Alice to support him as do her siblings. But she cannot find a paid job anywhere. She makes a bit of money as a typist, but, the income is negligible.


Smiling Alice

The third person who works here is Biiara Sylvia. She is a very bright and energetic young woman. She is a trained Rehab Worker. She was born with a bone disease in her left leg. She was operated in 1998 when an artificial limb was transplanted. She has a big limp while walking. She provides rehab services to children, parents of disabled children and to adults. As a qualified rehab workers, she would like to secure a paid job, but she cannot find one and KDP cannot afford to pay her. So, she also works here as a volunteer.

Biiara Gatrida is another woman I met. She was born with polio and both her legs are non-functional. She wears thongs on her hands which she uses as her feet and drags herself all over. It is gut-wrenching to watch her. Yet, even in this kind of condition, she took courses on weaving mats and baskets and now sells them to support herself. Her biggest wish right now is to acquire a wheel chair so she could pick up raw material and deliver finished products for her weaving business herself instead of asking others who are not always reliable. She also wants to start giving lessons in weaving to others in her situation. What a story!

I have met a number of other disabled people. Despite their disabilities and accompanying poverty, they carry on their lives with limitless resiliency, perseverance and positive outlook. They exude happiness.

Liberation Day and Equator

Yesterday was Uganda’s national Liberation Day. Twenty four years ago yesterday, the National Resistance Movement (NRM) defeated the rebels and took power under the leadership of Yoweri Museveni. I attended a rally and celebrations in Kasinga, a village about 35 km from here on the border with DRC. It consisted of unending parades of military personnel and a huge speech-a-thon. Anyone who has any kind of elected or appointed position made a long drawn out speech. The best part was some entertainment and traditional dancing. I hope I can upload a video of this dance in which women clad in grass skirts dance to the tune of drums, known as Embara, made up of wooden planks placed on two small tree trunks. Very traditional and unique!

On return trip from Kasinga, we stopped at the Equator which is exactly at the midway point of the earth. So, now I have the bragging rights that I stood at the centre of the earth. Ha, ha! The man in yellow shirt is Peter of KDP.

Life in Kasese

Kasese – Week One

Kasese is located in the foothills of the Rwenzori mountain range that provides a gorgeous backdrop. However, Kasese is one of the poorest districts in the country with 60-70% of the population living below poverty line, i.e. making less than $1 a day. By far the majority of the population is Christian, but there is also a sizable segment of Muslims. There are about half a dozen Indian families, all of them in some sort of small business.

I live in a neighbourhood called Kamaiba. Walking from there to and from work has given me some understanding of the town. At street corners and particularly at major intersections there are the ever-present boda bodas (motorbike taxis) with young Ugandan men looking for customers. There are also bicycle taxis that offer cheaper fares. A ride on the boda boda from my apartment to office, usually a 20-minute walk, costs 1,000 Ugandan shillings, approximately 50 cents.

Like in India, Bangladesh and other developing countries, mobile phones have taken over this society and land lines are unheard of. One of the first piece of advice I was given was to get myself a mobile. Without mobiles life here would be unthinkable. This is what accounts for the proliferation of dozens of businesses offering mobile phones and related products and services. Every block in the town has at least one and often more than two or three such businesses. Some of them also offer other services like photo copying, typing and computer repairs.

Kasese’s streets are also full of all kinds of shops – milk and bread, fruits and vegetables, groceries, household items, motorbike and bicycle accessories, clothing and pharmacies. If you are looking for a tailor, all you have to do is to go to the main market and you will find several tailors on the side walk with hand-operated sewing machines ready to give you instant service.
There are a number of restaurants, a few of them, more expensive ones, offer menus featuring Ugandan as well as their version of Indian and Western dishes. There are a few Internet Cafes, most in extremely cramped quarters with no fan or ventilation. They seem to be doing very well.

The People

Ugandans are slim and short, soft speaking and mild mannered. I have seen a few fat people but I haven’t seen any obese Ugandan. They dress conservatively. No bright-coloured clothing. Most people speak English, but their accents and very soft voice can pose some problems in communicating.

Their family size is quite large – 7, 8 or more children are not uncommon. One of the workers here explained that Ugandans prefer large families because that is a sign of respect in the community. Also, parents fear that not all of their children will live to look after them in their old age. To make sure that at least a few of the children will survive, they opt for many children. But, large family size inevitably contributes to poverty. Despite abject poverty, however, there are no beggars on the streets. A huge difference between Uganda and some other developing countries!

I find Ugandans to be very friendly. Walking on the street, many people greet me or return my greeting with a smile and a nod. Sometimes I find little children gazing at me from a distance and as I come close, ask me “how are you, Sir?” or “good morning, Mister”. Cute!

Like other traditional societies, Ugandan culture is extremely hierarchical. This is reflected in how people identify themselves. Unlike our way of identifying one’s name with first and last names, here people identify themselves with their seniority in the family. For example, I would be called Balouku Navin, meaning the first born son called Navin. Nisha would be Masika (first born girl) Nisha, Shaan would be Bwambale (second born son) Shaan and Neil would be Masereka (third born) Neil.

Uganda’s population consists of many tribes each with its own language, music, arts and traditions. They greatly value their tribal identity. In my very first talk with Peter at KADUPEDI, he told me that he is from the Mukonzo tribe, Konzo for short, and that this tribe predominates in this region. However, in the country as a whole, the tribe representing the majority is Baganda which their current President Yoweri Museveni belongs to. It is this tribal identity that has caused much internal strife and civil wars in Uganda over the years.

One big, very pleasant surprise! Motor cycle driving has not been an issue. Original plan was for me to get training in Kampala, but that didn’t happen; and, when the matter was raised here, I simply said that I don’t drive a motorbike. That seems to have put an end to that matter. What a relief!

My Uganda Experience - Kampala

My flight landed at the Entebbe airport around 10 p.m. on Tuesday night. It took about an hour to claim the luggage and complete immigration formalities.
The city is about an hour’s drive from the airport. We were taken to the Shalom Guest House, a very clean and comfortable place that provides transitory accommodation and breakfast to visitors. Very much like a B&B.

Kampala

The capital of Uganda is a big sprawling city. The terrain is hilly and the traffic is very heavy except late in the evening and early in the morning. The city is lush with lots of trees and plants and vegetation. And, with their red-bricked roof tops, the homes sparkle in the sun. There is a golf course right in the city centre which adds to Kampala’s beauty.

The British influence is evident everywhere from the traffic on the left to the use of English. Ugandans are very soft-speaking people and with their heavy accents, I have to listen very carefully. I expect that this will become less difficult as time goes by.

Kampala is a global city. Its 1.4 million population is highly diverse and there are Chinese, Italian, Indian, Thai and European restaurants to cater to the preferences of the city’s residents. Temperature has hovered around 25 + which is not difficult to take coming from -20 in Ottawa.
Two main modes of public transportation in Kampala are Bodas and Mututus. Bodas are motorbike taxis driven by whoever has a motor bike is able to rent or borrow one. The drivers are reckless and they do not wear helmets. In fact, helmets are almost unknown in Kampala and we have been strongly advised not to hire a Boda. There are thousands and thousands of Bodas. The Mututus are old, very old rickety minibuses that have been converted into ‘shared taxis. I have taken these a few times and the one this evening had 16 people in it including the driver and a conductor. They stuff passengers like sardines. They are a lot less expensive and safer than the Bodas.

Wednesday evening I met a group of ex pats for dinner. There were 25-30 ex pats at this posh Indian restaurant located on the terrace of one of the most modern shopping malls in Kampala. The mall also houses a glittering Casino. The place is as modern as our best malls in Canada complete with underground parking. Many of the ex pats at the restaurant were from England, some from Ireland, a few from the U.S. and I was the lone Canadian. A number of them were volunteers, while a have been here on business or with diplomatic services.

Ugand is called the Pearl of Africa and it is a landlocked and neighboring countries are: Sudan in the North, Kenya in the East, Tanzania and Rwanda in the South and Congo in the West.
Uganda gained independence from Britain on October 9, 1962.

Some facts:

- Population: 32.3 million - 50% of the population below 15 years of age
- Religions: Roman Catholic 41.9%, Protestant 42% Muslim 12.1%, other 3.1%, none 0.9%
- Languages: Over 40 languages spoken - English Official Language - Ganda or Luganda most widely spoken followed by Swahili and Arabic
- Currency: Canadian $1 = 1,820 Uganda shillings

My next blog, depending on Internet accessibility, will be from Kasese located in southwestern Uganda. This is where I will be working for three months. I go there tomorrow.